An Interlude with Wiring.

Now the real problem with the Neuralizer is that is gobbles electricity. There was no chance that it would ever be practical to make the power supply a self-contained affair, hence the need for the Aethero-Galvanic Exciter (or in more prosaic terms, the battery box).

But it couldn't be just a box, not for something as optically busy as the Neuraliser. It would have to be a piece of optically-active sculpture in its own right, and I'd seen Lumin Discs incorporated into steampunk handbags before, so when I came across a source of inexpensive three-inch diameter Lumin Discs it was obvious what would be the perfect jazzer-upperer for the Aethero-Galvanic Exciter.

The only fly in Nurse McReady's Surgical Bruise Lotion is that the Neuraliser requires a twelve volt supply, whereas the Lumin Disc requires a three volt supply. I could have built something called a voltage divider, but I'm not electronically astute enough to build much beyond a resistor string and though one can turn such things into voltage dividers they waste energy (already in limited supply) and the voltage across the Lumin Disc would fall off as the general voltage dropped, causing G_d knows what sort of behaviour.

The easiest way to address the issue would be to use the twelve volt battery to power the Neuraliser and a separate three volt battery to power the Lumin Disc. Controlling all this through one switch would require a relay.

A relay, for those who have never seen one, is an electromagnet that throws a switch when the coil is energised. The switch can in fact be several switches, so I would use a low-current consumption twelve volt  relay with two "normally open" switches, one to switch the voltage for the Neuraliser, the other to turn on the Lumin Disc.

The connections are as follows: The battery positive is connected to the 2 amp fuse. The fuse is connected to a Y splitter, one leg connected to the rotary switch that masquerades as the red stop tap on the front of the Aethero-Galvanic Exciter, the other to one side of one of the relay switches. The other side of the relay switch is connected to the power socket in the side of the Aethero-Galvanic Exciter, and the other side of the rotary switch is connected to one of the relay coil connectors. The other relay coil connectors is connected to a Y splitter, one leg of which goes to the negative pole of the twelve volt battery and the other to the socket in the side of the Aethero-Galvanic Exciter.

The Lumin Disc is modified by removing the shield covering the circuitry and lengthening the battery wires. A separate battery holder is obtained, and the positive side of the battery holder is connected to the other relay switch contact. The other side of this switch is connected to the positive terminal of the Lumin Disc. The other terminal of the battery holder is connected to the negative terminal of the Lumin Disc.

NOTE: The Lumin Disc is a polarised device - it is crucial to identify the positive and negative sides of the device and to connect them to the proper terminals of the battery to avoid destruction of the electronics. The Neuraliser electronics are also polarised and proper care must be taken to identify the positive slot in the socket and to wire the positive side of the inverters accordingly.

It is a rule of thumb that we put all switches and fuses in the positive side of the circuit, and a matter of necessity that the fuse goes as near to the battery as possible. The Lumin Disc should also be fused, but since the wires, battery and electronics will be relatively safely housed in the box the danger is much less than with the Neuraliser, where the wires can get caught in scenery, opportunities for short circuits are more numerous and even water could get into the equation if it starts raining.

So what happens when you turn the tap on the Aethero-Galvanic Exciter?

The rotary switch supplies power to the coil of the relay, which throws the two switches, which connects the twelve volt supply to the socket and the three volt supply to the Lumin Disc. I've included a kinematic diagram in an attempt to clarfiy things.

So, if you can see the Lumin Disc effect, there is a connection between the twelve volt battery and the socket and enough juice in that bettery to pull in the relay. I'd really like some sort of voltmeter, but instruments that were dirt cheap in my youth are now impossible to find, and even inexpensive analogue meters are very pricey affairs, especially the ultra-desirable moving coil meters.

Building the Aethero-Galvanic Exciter Part 1.

Before you attempt to construct a Moran Aetheric Neuralizer for your very own, you will need to construct a power source for it, since you will need a 12 volt DC supply to test each of the components during the construction of it. This post will describe how to build a rather striking one, with a bill of materials including the source I used for those materials, when I could get the websites of the vendors I used to cooperate.


To construct the Moran Aethero-Galvanic Exciter you will need the following materials:

1/2" pine:

4" x 8" (1 off) for the base of the box
4" x 5" (2 off) for the end pieces
5" x 9 3/8" (2 off) for the front and back
5 1/2 " x 9 3/8" (1 off) for the lid

Hinges (2 off)
Hook-type catch (1 off)

I used a Shutter Hinge kit which had all the parts I needed and more, but came with a steep price tag. The linked version is cheaper than the one I bought, but appears to be identical in detail.

5/16" eye-bolt (2 off)
Spring Clip (2 off)

Webbing Belt

I'd like to say there's an off-the-shelf belt that can be used but I had to make one from an unsuitable webbing belt and a make-your-own eyelet kit. Source the belt in an Army Surplus store. Buy two, you'll need another for the Neuralizer.

12 volt, 7 or 8AH lead/acid battery (I used "Battery Supersite" as my vendor and was very satisfied by their service and expeditious treatment of my order, both of which was first-rate. I've used this vendor more than once and never failed to be favourably impressed).

20 gauge hook-up wire, three or more colours

Spade connectors (2 off) for the battery connector.

NEMA L5-15R receptacle (1 off) Home Depot stocks these and I used theirs, but I can't make their d____d website show it to me.

You'll also need a matching plug and you'll need it now so you can size the hole in the case for it. See the comments about the receptacle with regard to Home Depot, which is where I got mine but the blasted website will not cough it up.

12 volt, 60 mA double pole double throw relay (1 off)
AAA battery holder (1 off)
Long stem potentiometer with on-off switch (1 off)
Inline fuseholder.
Two ampere fuse(s).

Lumin Disc, green (1 off)

1/2" copper 90 degree elbow (2 off)
1/2" copper pipe T fitting (1 off)
1/2" copper pipe for joining above (less than 1 inch required for this purpose; extra will be used for Neuralizer construction).
Red sillcock hand wheel (1 off)

You will also need a 12 volt battery charger capable of charging the lead acid battery. I use a car battery charger from this company that has given years of good service.


You will also need a couple of 1/4" hex nuts (1/4 - 20 is a common size), a washer sized to slip over the potentiometer shaft but not to exceed the diameter of the copper T by too much.

I used the following tools, which you will need to have or find equivalents for:

Drill Press - 16mm chuck, 12 speed. (This seems to be a close match to mine, but I've not used it myself)
Table Sander
Palm Sander (Mine's an old Black and Decker. This is the one I'd buy today)
Router Table c/w router (This router is exceptional value for money) My router table was the least expensive Sears model made some 20 years ago and is no longer available, or I'd recommend it.
Biscuit Joiner
30 watt soldering iron

Dremel Tool configured as a router. Can also be used instead of the drill press as a polisher and sander in a pinch.

Sanding drum kit for drill press.

Twist Drill Bits - 1/16th thru 1/2" sizes This set seems properly spiffing. Mine was put together over the years from various sources.
Hole Saw - 2 1/2" diameter
3/4 inch Hole Saw, spade drill bit or Forstner bit

Dial Caliper.

Electrical Solder
Electrician's tape (black and another colour, preferably red)

1/4" Ogee Bit with edge guide
3/8" Rabbet Bit with edge guide
1/4" Straight Bit
1/8" Veining Bit

Clamps big enough to squeeze the box sides together. I use Irwin "quick grip" type but any with a wide-enough throat will do. If you are using clamps with steel jaws use wood shims to avoid dinging up the box. You'll need about six to make the box in one go.

#10 Biscuits

1/4" die matched to the selection of 1/4 inch nuts and die wrench (1/4 - 20 is a common size). The link is to a set that cost a bit, and you'll only need the 1/4" die for this job, but sourcing a separate die is your problem.

Plumbing kit: A blowtorch, solder & flux, brush (plumber's pipe brush - I can't get the website to show it but any hardware store will have one).

And a source of flame.

A small tube of silicone sealant, a bottle of carpenter's yellow glue and a tube of 5-minute epoxy will also be needed.

Construction:

(Refer to the drawing below while following the instructions, and note the cross-section diagram in red of the holes with special profiles).


Cut and sand the box panels to size. Cut a biscuit slot in each end of the base and a matching slot on the lower inside face of the end panels to match. Dry fit to ensure the end panels fit properly.

Cut two slots in the long edges of the base and matching slots in the lower inside of the front and back panels and dry fit them to ensure a square and close fit.

Cut slots in the front and back edges of the end panels, and matching slots in the inside face ends of the front and rear panels and dry fit again.

The idea is that every edge-to-face joint will be strengthened by a biscuit, two biscuits where the length is sufficient.

Find the center of the front panel, and drill out a 2.5" hole using a holesaw mounted in a drill press set to rotate at no more than 300 rpm. Go slowly and back the saw out to clear the kerf of sawdust. When you are about 3/4 the way through, reverse the workpiece and continue. This will prevent the circular divot you are cutting from jamming inside the saw.

Using the router (preferably with a router table) and a the ogee bit fitted with a flush edge guide carefully machine the outside edge of the hole to a pleasing profile but do not go too deep. I ended up with a simple round-over rather than a double-curve because I would have had to machine the hole far too deep to get a proper ogee.

Flip the work piece over, switch the ogee bit for a rabbet bit fitted with a flush edge guide and carefully, working slowly remove the material from the back of the hole until you have a circular rabbet just deep enough to flush-fit the lumin disc. It will be a loose fit I'm afraid. I never had the time to refine this part of the construction.

Take the right-hand end panel (the end on the right when you look at the front), find the center and centerpunch. Using a 1 3/8" holesaw, drill out the hole for the receptacle. Fit the electrical socket to the inner side and make a mark or otherwise determine how far in from the outside it sits because you need to widen the hole to accommodate the plug. The dial caliper includes a depth gauge that is useful if you have a drill press with a depth control, but trial-and-error will suffice in a pinch.

The best way to remove the material is to use your drill press and sanding drum kit, sanding in a circular pattern evenly around the entire rim and test fit the plug until the plug fits easily but the gap when the plug is connected is almost too small to see. You'll be removing around 1/16" of material.

Measure the thickness of the right-end end panel and add a 1/2". In the middle of the panel, on the right side, offset by the value you just calculated plus half the diameter of the potentiometer and centerpunch. Drill a 3/4 inch hole.

Assemble the box.

Practice the assembly, which if you've done it properly will be base to ends, then back and front to that sub-assembly. Practice this until you've got it straight. Then do it some more because things will start to go wrong as soon as you begin for real, as we all know.

Apply yellow carpenter's glue to the edges and biscuits and assemble the box and clamp the parts together.

For those without access to a biscuit joiner, one can use a router to cut slots for biscuits but I personally wouldn't advise it unless the builder has much experience with the router. One could also fabricate box-joints or dovetails for the sides and cut a rabbet around the base and a matching slot in each side to accommodate it, but real joinery takes time and skill or jigs that cost as much as the biscuit joiner. I think the best alternative to biscuit joining would be to drill and peg the pieces with dowels, but I will leave that as an exercise for the builder since I already came up with a solution that works well. Simply gluing the joins with no reinforcement will end in tears, fiasco and possible injury.

While the glue is setting up, lets make some plumbing.

You need to assemble the copper elbows and T fitting into a manifold. Study the photographs in the blog and get the general idea of what you are doing. The elbows form a sort of "C" shape and the leg of the T points in the opposite direction. Note that the whole assembly should be flat, with all pipes lying in the same plane. This is important.

Okay, scour the insides of all the fittings with your plumber's brush, and treat the end of a length of pipe with it too. Cut off two small pipe sections with your pipe cutter, enough so the fittings will fit flush together, no longer, apply flux generously and assemble the T to the elbows.

Holding the assembly in a bench vise, heat it until the flame changes colour, then apply solder. It will flow into the microscopic gaps. You don't need gobs of solder to be dripping everywhere, just a smidge is just the ticket. Let this cool before you poke it. It takes a while.

Once cool, you need to drill a 5/16" hole in the bottom of the T fitting. To do this, clamp the manifold in a your drill press vise and run the drill down the axis of the open pipe of the T. This way you can judge the center very easily.

Take the potentiometer and clamp the stem vertically in your bench vise, and carefully fabricate a 1/4 - 20 screw thread on it using your die. Go slowly and back the die off every half turn or so. Make about an inch and a half of thread.

Clip two pieces of red hookup wire, about 3", strip an eighth of an inch of insulation from each end and tin the wire, and the terminals of the switch of the potentiometer (we won't be using the potentiometer winding, we just want the rotary action and the switch). Then solder the wires to the switch terminals.

I never found a truly satisfying way of attaching the potentiometer to the pipe, but I'll share the method I used. Push the potentiometer stem through the hole under the T fitting so it sticks out of the pipe, and fit a quarter inch nut, screwing it down until it sits just above the rim of the T fitting's pipe. Add the washer. There should be not much gap between the washer and pipe, just barely enough to allow it to turn. Add the handwheel. If the fit is too tight, run a 1/4" drill through the hole and try again. Finally screw on a second nut to retain the whole thing and tighten it down.

You should find that the potentiometer is held close to the pipe, but is annoyingly free to turn when you twist the handwheel. Add silicone sealant between the pipe and potentiometer. You must attach the two without impeding the stem rotation or making it obvious from the front. Good luck.

I hate this vehemently. If anyone succeeds in making a more acceptable and visually appealing manifold please post here telling me how you did it with your component sources. Of course, if you can find a source of potentiometers with switches that feature the nut-and-screw-thread mounting you have the option of making a small brass plate to mount the potentiometer to the box front and avoiding the issue.

Once it sets up (hours later) you can use it as a gauge to figure out where you need to drill the half inch holes for the elbows in the front of the box. Drill those holes on the drill press, then relieve the holes with sandpaper until you can slide the manifold/potentiometer assembly into place.

You need now to center the lead acid battery against the rear wall of the box and to fabricate stop blocks to hold it in place in the box. Use offcuts of wood, about 1/2" square. You need one about the length of the battery stuck to the floor of the box and two about two inches long stuck to the back wall. Make the fit snug and use glue, nails and whatever else you think will work to get it all to stick. The battery needs to be removable, but also needs to be secure when the box is in motion on your hip.

With all the holes drilled, sand the box and knock off any sharp corners, then stain it a pleasing colour. I used a medium-dark brown stain. One hint is to seal the box first so the colour is even. I didn't and lived to regret it.

Then you can position the pipe manifold in position and hold it in place - large rubber bands might work best here, and glue it in place using silicone sealant to glue the potentiometer and pipe ends into their respective holes.

I think that is enough for this installment. In the next one we'll do some really nasty electrical work

Please let me know in the comments if this article is unhelpful or can be improved in some specific way. If you have a modification of the design that works particularly well, tell me about that too.

Finally, I have no problem with you taking this design for your own use as a steampunk accessory, but would ask that your finished device be referred to by the name given here. I, Colonel Moran invented the thing, I deserve to be immortalized when you show your stunning oak-with-ivory-inlay version in some national public forum.

Practice your soldering technique before the next article.

Toodle pip!

Neuralizer Modification

I replaced the "permanent" connection between the Aetheric Neuralizer and the Aethero-Galvanic Exciter with a twist-lock plug and socket combination this evening after work.

After disconnecting the wires and disengaging the silicone rubber I used to anchor them for the showing I used a holesaw to open up the hole in the side of the Aethero-Galvanic Exciter casing to the same size as the round, three pin socket.

Then I had to mill out the hole to make it a little larger for about half its depth to accommodate the plug, which I did with a sanding drum mounted in the drill press.

Mounting the socket so that the plug would orient the way I wanted turned out to be the most awkward job of the entire build. I had to reconfigure the mounting tabs on the socket quite radically, and then the wire mounts were underneath so it had to be wired then installed in the casing, then a wire broke off the switch and had to be re-soldered in-situ, then there was no power in the socket when I twisted the regulator. The list just went on and on.

But eventually the job was done and the Neuralizer can now be separated from its power supply at need. I need to touch up the casing and I think I want to paint the plug. Not sure what color, but the white nylon cord grip that forms the last third of the plug is not appropriate.

The Aethero-Galvanic Exciter

Here we see a composite shot of the Moran Aethero-Galvanic Exciter

It was necessary to cheat a little to properly expose the photograph for both the casing and the resonator window effect. If you were to see the real thing, it would look quite a lot like this when switched on.

Dimension-wise, the casing is around 9 inches in length, 6 inches in height and depth. The device is turned on by twisting the hand-wheel on the plumbing to the right of the picture.

When switched off the plasma effect is turned off and no power is available at the outlet. As it stands the Aetheric Neuralizer is coupled to the device permanently, but a twist-lock socket/plug have been obtained and will be added to the design to enable a more easy transportation of the Neuralizer and the use of the Exciter to power other devices. It will also provide a possible way to recharge the accumulator without de-installing it as is currently required (no pun intended).

I also need to have another go at installing the hinges as the lid is slightly mis-aligned, but that can wait a bit.

Aetheric Neuralizer In Action

Another picture of the Aetheric Neuralizer being wielded to deadly effect in the hands of the inventor, Colonel Moran.

Note the shoulder-strung Moran Aethero-Galvanic Exciter, another landmark invention from the fertile mind and tireless hands of Colonel Moran.

This device uses the Moran Aetheric Resonator, configured as a disc for this purpose, to provide the electrical energy needed to initiate and control the linear Aetheric Resonator (which can be seen in the picture as the green rod connecting the rear assembly of the Neuraliser with the forward resonator housing), which in turn provides the initiating principle of the Aetheric Neuralizer.

Also visible in this picture is the radiant glow from the Barrel-Mounted Heterodyning Exciters, which indicates that the Aetheric Neuralizer is about to be fired.

Readers should be assured that the device was detuned to a high degree before that took place. No-one was injured in the demonstration of the correct stance and firing technique, and there was no structural damage to the Ravenblood Games emporium.

Aetheric Neuralizer Outing

I took first prize in Ravenblood Games' costume competition tonight largely due to the overwhelming awesomeness of The Moran Aetheric Neuralizer. I'll try and get photos from those who took them.

I have to admit that once I had the Moran Galvanic Exciter figured out I knew I had a winner. You know the concept is working when you want to play with it for fun. I was in real danger of flattening the battery before the event, because I spent so much time watching the effects in action.

The Neuralizer/Power Supply combo drew comment from everyone, as did my fanciful "Praetorian Guard/Space 1889 Soldier" costume. Even though I never fully finished the Neuralizer (I ran out of time and so the external piping and gauges it was supposed to feature were left off) it was still visually stunning.

I'm extremely pleased with myself. I'll add the missing features later and do some internal tidying on both the Moran Galvanic Exciter and the Moran Aetheric Neuralizer - the chocolate-block connectors I used for expedience and screw-up-proofing the circuitry could now be usefully switched out for two-part male/female connectors for example, but it is now a case of super-detailing a product that is basically good to go.

And the host of tonight's event made a point of saying that he would like to display the device in his store, and that was extremely satisfying as a vindication of my design.